The road into the Howgills from the junction with the busy A685 instantly heralds a slower pace of life and calms the spirit. On one side, the grouse-loud heather, on the other, the wall-bound, grazing Swaledale sheep. Then, as you round the bend that sees you entering the parish boundary of Ravenstonedale, clatter over the cattle grid and drop down in the lee of Ash Fell Edge; Tarn House farm nestles in front of you. Peace. Captured here with a November frost and duck-egg sky, it epitomizes the serenity of Eden.